Thursday, October 30, 2008 Pop Up Corpse

Here are a few pictures of our first motorized prop. The project started with a frame from an old stationary bike, a broken weedeater, a wiper motor from a Buick Skylark and a $20 'talking bride' skull. The bride skull would cycle through three corny songs that were useless for scaring tots, but was equipped with an articulated jaw driven by a 5-volt motor. We wanted a corpse that would pop-up fast and say/scream something with synchronized jaw movement, did not want to spend more than $50, and did not have an air compressor. And so the design criteria were set.

This is the frame of the corpse in the rest position. The mechanical elements and hands are completed. His spine is the weedeater - the curve of the aluminum frame provided a good offset to attach the linkage from the drive arm. The main frame is the stationary bike, chosen because it already had good bushings where the pedals were mounted. The bushings were easy to re-use as the pivot point below the corpse's pelvis. The rest of the armature is old aluminum from other projects. Also visible is the wooden frame of the toe-pincher coffin, to be finished with cardboard (I know, I know) stapled to this frame.


Here is the corpse in the upright position with his scare full on. The theory is that once he reaches this position, an evil laugh (courtesy of Vincent Price) will be played from CD, complete with synchronized jaw movement and flashing yellow eyes. We will see...
His hands are the classic coat hanger wire, duct tape and glue-soaked paper towel technique. The fingernails are cut from a milk jug.




Raising the left arm was a simple matter of mounting it on all-thread, then adding a length of aluminum angle stock parallel to the spine with a pivot point slightly offset from the spine's. The right arm was to move sideways, and required a bit of clunky engineering. There are six pivoting joints in the assembly that transfers the vertical motion to the lateral motion that we needed. No way this could fail under repeated use, right?




Two end-of-cycle switches were required to stop the motor when the corpse was fully reclined and then again when he achieves the full upright position. Initial tests of controlling the motor directly through the switches showed that the cam would not park at the right spot to keep the switch open. The result was the corpse most often thrashing up and down continuously, nearly beating itself to death.




This was solved by using two 12-volt relays: one wired to 'latch' when it receives a negative pulse (until either switch is actuated) and in turn activating the second to provide 12-volt power to the wiper motor. The configuration worked quite well and was cheap. NOTE: the 12 volt power feed needs to be fused for safety!




A final treatment of glue-soaked paper towel has been applied to the head and hands, tinted with food color. The cardboard neck and a little of his chest received the same. The torso and arms have been filled out with chicken wire. We dressed him with a t-shirt to hide the mesh pattern, then a muddy dress shirt, and finished out the coffin with cardboard, foam and some old curtains. The foot of the coffin is left incomplete because we will install a chicken wire mound and cover with leaves and debris. This will hopefully create the impression that the coffin is jutting up out of the ground.




He moves pretty quick from activation to full upright position with the whole cycle taking less than 2 seconds. The motion has considerable force, which caused me to abandon motion-triggered activation, as there would be no barrier between him and the tots. No point in risking injury to anyone! Besides, I would have just sat and watched him scare people anyway.




Sorry that there are no photos of the inside of the head. After researching the normal circuits and endless douglas fir tree hacks I landed on a simple solution to synchronizing the jaw to audio: driving the motor directly from an amplified audio signal. How can you drive a DC motor and DC LEDs from an AC audio signal? By connecting the speaker outputs of one channel from a car CD receiver to a bridge rectifier (essentially four diodes, much like a car alternator uses to convert its AC output to DC) and then the outputs of the rectifier to the 5-volt DC motor and lights. This does present an odd (low impedance) load to the amplifier, and initial testing with an 8-ohm home receiver caused it to pop into protect mode at higher volume. The 4-ohm stable CD receiver that we used Halloween night performed well. Adjusting the balance control allowed shifting more power to the left (jaw motor) channel without overpowering the actual audio output of the right (speaker) channel. If our audio system had not included a balance adjustment, we could have increased the gain of the left channel before burning the disc.



Wednesday, October 29, 2008 The Grave Grabber

The Grave Grabber sitting on the floor. His head and hands are recycled from our 2003 Pop-up Corpse project, so check out that page for cosmetic details.





Grave Grabber (rear view) with his shirt off. This is a super simple animation and he worked reliably for five hours of continuous operation. The armature is primarily aluminum "L" channel and some steel flat bar.






Better views of the crank and motor assembly.






Here the Grabber is lying on his back and this is the bottom of the base showing the motor. The red and black wi
res draped over the wooden frame powered LEDs in the Grabber's eyes.

The Ghost Video

The "Flying Crank Ghost" has got to be the best documented Halloween prop out there. I wondered why people were fanatical about the Ghost until we built one. Everyone that saw it liked it.

This video shows the Ghost as she appeared "live".


The Ghost

Here is our finished ghost figure lying on the ground. She is a wire armature with cheesecloth and two old curtains as her shroud. We washed the material in RIT whitening so that it would fluoresce under blacklight.


Her armature is (of course) coat hanger bent into basic shape with free moving loop joints at shoulders and elbows. We taped all exposed ends of the coat hanger to prevent the shroud from snagging.


Her hands are little girl's 'glamor gloves' from the dollar bin stretched over coathanger fingers and stuffed with batting. The wrists are taped to the wire forearm, and the sleeves of the shroud are hot-glued to the top of the gloves.


Her face is a Mardi Gras mask (around $4) with cheesecloth glued over the contour of the face with enough excess material to form a veil over the rest of the head. We stuffed a white grocery bag full of other bags to form a ball to round out the back of the cranium. Then we poked the coat hanger throu
gh the bag-ball to form the hook with which to hang her. Some strips ripped into the cheesecloth and tied behind the bag-ball held it all together. We also put a strip of black duct tape on the bag-ball behind the eyes of the mask to make them appear hollow.


The marionette mechanism (bottom view) is just an "I" frame of aluminum "L" channel. The white reflector at the bottom of the picture is a blacklight mounted to the frame. We did this because she was going to be mounted high above the spectators and there was no good alternative for moun
ting the blacklight.The dimensions of the frame were based on the spacing that we desired between her hands and the forward distance of her hands to her body. The rear cross member is much longer than necessary - I don't cut to length unless necessary. The spacing of the two central cross members was based on the width of the wiper motor's plywood platform since it was already assembled from previous props.


This is a top view of the mechanism, showing the motor and power supply. Initially we mounted the pulleys securely to the frame, because they were pivoting pulleys. The line jumped the pulleys consistently, so we tied the pulleys loosely with nylon rope instead, and they moved much more freely and never failed. The Ghost operated outdoors in difficult weather with 20 MPH wind gusts, but never had any trouble.


Black boot laces proved to be a cheap and functional line to tether the Ghost to the crank pivot.

Here is a side vie
w of the mechanism, showing some detail of the motor and power supply.

Body Slinger Update

OK, so the Body Slinger never made it to full automation and I didn't even get photos of the completed "jack in the box" effect.

Here is the head of Jack the Evil Clown.

The mask was $7 from Big Lots. Add plastic eyeballs, some Sharpie touch-up, and a good coat of high gloss sealant to the mouth and you have a fairly creepy clown.

General: The prop setup was the body slinger in a 4' X 4' plywood box upholstered with some old drapes. Jack was finished off with store-bought rubber hands and dressed in a shiny white fabric with irregular red polka dots.

In the box with Jack was a fog machine (looked cool and hid Jack since the box had no lid) and two pairs of speakers.

Audio: One pair of speakers provided a continuous soundtrack and one pair delivered Jack's scream/laugh. The continuous track was a free download from Sinistersonics mixed down to a mono track. Jack's scream/laugh was a free sound effect slightly manipulated with Audacity.

Both pairs of speakers were driven from a two channel 40 watt car amp powered from a PC power supply. The two speakers for the soundtrack were wired in series (lower output) and his scream/laugh pair in parallel (higher output). His scream/laugh had to be manually triggered since automation of the prop was discarded.

The soundtrack source was a portable CD player connected to one channel of the amp. Jack's scream/laugh was recorded on a RadioShack 20-second voice recorder connected to the other channel of the amp. I ditched the 9 volt battery power source for the voice recorder and powered it from the 5 volt output of the power supply used for the amp.

Lighting: We lit the prop with a ground level green flood and added a blue flood mounted higher from the opposite side to light Jack when extended. The blue flood was connected through a 'Thunder' machine from Target (last year's after Halloween sale) triggered by his scream/laugh track.

Control: It was a two-person operation, with one watching the guests to time the scare, trigger Jack's scream/laugh and keep the fog at a good level. The second person released the rope to let Jack fly and retracted him for the next group. It probably didn't need to be two people but it was more fun that way.

Review: I was bummed out with three straight days of rain and disappointed that I didn't complete the motorized return for the prop. That eliminated any chance to use a motion sensor for activation. It did remind me, though, that there is nothing more effective than having a person watch and pick exactly the right moment for trigger. It had been a number of years since I had been tethered to a prop, and it was actually kind of a kick.

Body Slinger

The body slinger in early development. The base and armature are basically completed at a total cost of $25 - we had to buy the lumber and two lift springs. The aluminum stock came from an old chaise lawn chair and camper shell.



In the photo left I am holding the slinger in the down position. The top of the head is approximately 3 1/2 feet from the ground.









The photo right shows the slinger after release. The springs have thrust it into full upright position. The top of the head is now at 7 feet from the ground and the body has moved forward about 2 1/2 feet.









Early test of the slinger. The two lift springs are in place, but the motorized return mechanism has yet to be installed (or designed, for that matter).


Lydia At The Beach

Lydia loves our vacations at the Outer Banks.



Her fear of the ocean doesn't diminish her appreciation of the dunes and sea oats.

Every time we turned around she was scrambling up the retaining wall outside our room and jumping into the sand. Eyes or no eyes, she can be a handful!




Lydia said "Bunny likes the feel of the sand and the playful seagulls the best."



Tuesday, October 28, 2008 Lydia and Lucy

Lydia striking a smart pose with Lucy, her goth guardian art doll. Her mom made Lucy to keep Lydia company.

Lydia

Little Lydia is a former image of herself. Once a bright and aspiring pupil, her young life took a tragic turn when her mother and father died suddenly. No one knows what happened that night, but we all assume that Lydia saw something so horrible she plucked out her own eyes.



Lydia was intended to be an entry in a $20 prop contest, but she did not arrive in time to compete. The thrift store provided inspiration with her costume and favorite stuffed animal.



We were given a bunch of free foam, so that was the preferred material for her body. Here we have her body roughed out by laminating three rough cut layers with cheap white glue.



Her wig was a cheap eBay purchase, and not exactly what we wanted. Her head is traditional paper mache over a small balloon.



Foam is surprisingly strong, but her feet needed reinforcement. Coat hanger and duct tape to the rescue!



This shot shows her head freshly coated with DAS clay and her eyes, nose and mouth cut out.



She seemed a bit flat so we added a fourth and fifth layer of foam to build out her belly and backside. Also added a neck stump that we abandoned later.



I am no
t sure why we covered her body in mache. I just started doing it and liked it. Her arms are foam laminated over coat hanger wire. Her hands are DAS clay built up on a coat hanger wire skeleton. The new and improved neck is a scrap wood dowel glued in the foam. Here she is with her little dress on.



Her neck stump will be painted white after her head is mounted.


Lydia & Bruin

Corpse

We heard about a DVD called "How to Make Your Own Scratch Built Corpse" by Special Effects Artist Christian Hanson and had to get it. This guy was crazy enough to sit down and document in substantial detail how to create a full size corpse out of commonly available materials. The anatomical accuracy that he achieves is impressive.

For the last two weekends we have been assembling one mostly based on his instructions. It might have been the buzz from applying ten tubes of construction adhesive, but I really enjoyed this project.

Out of respect for Christian I am not going to write up a how-to. Go buy his DVD!

In process - nothing better than a rack of bones drying in the garage!